With the stock (and self-resetting bugged) firmware from Creality store, Ender-3_HW4.2.7_SW2.0.8.28_CRTOUCH_standard, the print is pretty perfect, VASE MODE, NO ZHOP, NO RETRACT.
But with the custom firmware from Marlin Firmware Service, I’ve donated, even changing the PID from your to Creality stock, the z banding is there. From the firmware building I’ve seen that is possible to choose only TMC 2208… is it the same driver used in the nightly version?? Is there the issue?
All of the Creality boards have the TMC drivers wired up as A4988 mode - so you can’t use any of the TMC driver smarts.
As such, it really doesn’t matter what driver is selected - they’re still operating in compatibility mode as there is no UART connection to the drivers on the Creality boards.
I just want to say, I’m not ignoring this post - but I truly have no idea why you’re seeing what you’re seeing…
Normally, z-banding is introduced with a restriction in the Z axis causing sticking or a non-linear movement. If you can go back to stock firmware and this problem automatically fixes itself - then I have no explanation for you at all.
The strange part, is with the bands being so even, its certainly repeatable - which has me completely puzzled.
Are the speeds you print at the same during each run? ie is this the same .gcode file each time?
Never thought that you or someone else was ignoring me, at least or you are busy or can’t help
Anyway, the regular banding is pretty visible like the daily Sun in the last 3 tests, in the stock is more smoothed, and as you said, the banding is periodic but changes distance with the diameter of the cylinder:
larger cylinder: narrow banding
smaller cylinder: wider banding
THAT at the beginning brings me to think about an extruder issue (mechanically present and fixed) but if it is, why with the stock firmware (2.0.8, but bugged, the Creality’s one get self-reset randomly) the banding disappear and with the Marlin 2.1.X appear?? Something changes in the management of the voltages, stepper, and so on???
LAST MINUTE: the banding disappeared right now with the BED AT 0°!!! °_° WHY??? For hardware, software of physical reasons?
And why did the BED PID TUNING just disappear for the latest nightly? :°D
Yeah - I understand the frustration… The mainboard (and therefore firmware) can’t change any stepper voltages or things like that because of the lack of the UART connection. As such, the only way to change the stepper voltages is via the adjustment resistor on the mainboard - so that completely rules out that as a possibility…
The only thing that kind of comes to mind is maybe try checking the output of M503 using the stock Creality firmware, and then adjusting the newer firmware to match.
There are a lot of settings regarding jerk, acceleration, e-steps etc etc that we use the default for - and that normally doesn’t cause an issue. However if you observe specific differences like this - maybe something here is causing it on your specific hardware.
Here’s a hail mary shot - because it really is a guess - with PIDTEMPBED being disabled, do we draw more current in bang-bang mode that the power supply struggles with? I have no idea if this is the case or not - but tomorrows builds should have that option enabled again.
I don’t know how it got disabled - either the upstream configuration default changed to disabled, or I accidentally removed it at some point and didn’t notice. Either way, it should be back in the builds from tomorrows (20240125) onwards.
Already did the game of the M503 comparison and alignment. Nope.
Power Supply feeds also two 2 fans for the enclosure, with a step-down regulator, but low watt of absorption.
BANG BANG control? I’ll google it… Anyway, during a HOTEND PID TUNING with Repetier, I’ve noticed that the temperature line of the bed, wasn’t continuous, as the power was intermittent. So, if I got it, this alternated erogation of power to the bed, creates fluctuation of power to the hotend or stepper?
That’s my completely wild guess… It might make sense with the spacing of the rings - as it would be based on if/when the bed needs to be heated again and that would have a time component to it…
Again, it might not be this at all - but I could see how the factors could affect each other - even if only in theory…
Sounds like a plan… Also, given we’re thinking part of the theory is power delivery, you should check the connections on the mainboard and make sure they are either crimped in a ferrule, or bare copper wire in the screw terminals - and NOT solder tinned ends.
Or a google search on “Creality Ferrule” or similar will give you a tons of stories of mainboard faults and melted connectors from the default of soldered power cables…
EDIT: Before I did this on mine, I came across it trying to fault-find my printer - as the connector had gotten that hot it desoldered itself from the mainboard and was floating around in the case.
Right now printing a cylinder with the 27/1 version… BED PID TUNE comes back, done and everything seems working fine… except the remaining time not working, maybe is a slicer’s fault
