Been printing for the last week or so a RC front loader using ABS nozzle temp 245 and bed 110, coming out great. Lately been getting an “arcing” sound and the red LED flashing while it’s “arcing”. And getting this error. Reset the printer (Ender 3, Micro swiss all metal hot end DD and SKR mini bd) and able to print. Now it won’t even do that and still have 4-5 days of printing left. I am able to wiggle the wires going into the screw down connectors on the SKR mini E3 V3 (using ferrule connectors,those crimp on square) on both the power and heat bed - thinking they should be solid to the board.
Anyone experience this as well?
Hi Temonyx,
Can’t say I’ve had this exact problem (it looks like either your bed heater or thermistor has an issue - - I’d suspect that above a previously well-performing card because the bed and wires all move, where the card does not, and moving components are always to be suspected before non-moving components are), but I HAVE noticed that on pretty much all of the control cards I’ve had, those screw-connect Euro-style terminals all wiggle on the board. They’re not mechanically fastened to the board substrate like the cable or SD card connectors are, the only thing holding them in place is the soldering pins of the screw terminals, and those are just thin copper. WAY too easy to twist one of these and possibly shear one of those pins. Use a multimeter and check for continuity between the screw terminals and the backside pin lugs on the board (with the wires disconnected) while using your third hand to wiggle the connector a little ( 
) You shouldn’t get anything but straight continuity. Try the same thing with the bed leads; put the meter prods on the heater wires and run the bed back and forth watching closely for any continuity drop-outs. You might have to try it at different speeds - - pushing the plate very slowly might not be enough to open the circuit, while pushing it too fast might not give the meter enough time to read/display the open. Same thing - - you shouldn’t be seeing anything but straight continuity, no drop outs or dips in the readings. Try the same thing with the thermistor. In fact, check the thermistor FIRST, just static (not moving) - - you should read something in the neighborhood of 100K ohms (plus or minus 10%). Anything significantly different from that is likely a bad thermistor. Running the carriage back and forth will tell you if the issue is with the wires rather than the thermistor itself. Hope some of this helps!